"I expect to pass through this world but once. Any good therefore that I can do, or any kindness that I can show to my fellow-creature, let me do it now. Let me not defer or neglect it, for I shall not pass this way again"--Stephen Grellet

 
Moretti and More on eBay. Bill is a SUPER fast shipper and he uses the flat rate shipping costs. I love this glass supplier! He has an eBay store called Moretti and More
 
lbsupplys ~ You absolutely will not find a better place to get glass. Super fast shipping and GREAT service
 
HOT HEAD SOURCE.  Here is the source for a Hot Head set up but most importantly the books by CINDY JENKINS. These are also FABULOUS must have books
 
GALAXY GLASS on eBay. She sometimes has odd and rare colors and she ships super fast with the flat rate costs as well. I like to buy from her!
 
ZOOZII Tools . Amy has lots and lots of bead presses and fun things. I LOVE her presses...they are sooo easy to use!
 
CATTWALK TOOLS. Very VERY fun stuff. Lots of unique presses!! I LOVE them. Catt and Fred will get those tools out to you before you can blink. I think they have the fastest shipping on the planet along with...
 
VAL COX FRITS.  Oh My, these are such clean wonderful frits!! Val definetly pays attention to detail and her blends are to die for!
 
GLASS DIVERSIONS.  Frit, Frit and More frit. I adore using frit and Robin has a ton of FABULOUS and unique blends.

 

Well...it has nothing to do with Lamps....

CLICK HERE for wonderful Information on the HISTORY of GLASS BEADS

CLICK HERE For information on Lampwork beads at About.com

In a nutshell....A long long time ago folks used torches called Lamps to melt glass. Yep, I said MELT GLASS.  They found that many useful, as well as decorative things, could be made by reshaping and forming glass objects.  This is an art that is thousands of years old.

One of the most popular glass art hobbies today, other than glass blowing,  is Lampwork bead making.  It is an art that requires lots and lots of patience, practice, and persistance. It takes lots of time to learn how the glass moves in a molten state, how colors act together, and how shapes are formed. You simply cannot learn overnight...and I believe the learning process actually lasts years and years.  After four years on the torch I am finally comfortable with my stringer control.

A torch is used with a propane and oxygen surface mix.  This heats the flame up to over 1800 degrees....plenty of heat to melt glass.

The torch I use is a Nortel Minor Burner. I bought my entire starter kit from an ebay seller a little over two years ago. This kit came with everything I needed to get started except the oxygen and propane tanks. It even had glass and a book!!  I use propane and an oxygen concentrator...which is the thing you see with folks who have breathing problems or in hospital rooms.  I am more at ease with this than having one of those big scary oxygen tanks around the house. Some folks begin with a Hot Head set up.  You can buy a hothead set up from most glass suppliers as well.  This is alot less expensive to start with than the other torches.  I cannot speak on the ease of use...I have never used one.

A mandrel is prepared. This is a steel rod approx 1/16 inch in diameter and about 9 inches long (they DO come in different sizes)  dipped in a liquid bead release...sort of like flux in welding....which coats the steel rod and makes it possible to remove the bead after it cools. Without bead release ....you will have a plant stick.  My favorite bead release is Foster fire because the beads come off the mandrel easily and I don't have to fight with them. The Foster Fire bead release is either allowed to dry in the air on the mandrel OR dried in the flame (which is how I like it)  however some other brands require air drying. Sometimes, if I am doing a little stringer intense drawing, I will mix in a little Hotline bead release to the Foster Fire. It seems to hold better for me.

Then comes the rod of glass.  Most beadmakers use glass rods in several different diameters.  I like to use rods that are no smaller than 6 mm and no larger than 9-10 mm in diameter.  The tip of the rod is gently warmed in the end of the torch and then held in and out until it becomes a glowing orange ball of molten (HOT HOT) glass.  This "glob" is then wrapped around the prepared mandrel and flame cut from the rod.  The blob on the mandrel is now spun, twisted, and moved until a perfect (yah right) round bead is formed.  Glass WANTS to be round. If persistance, holding the mandrel competely horizontal,  and constant gentle spinning is used, a bead will "shape up" pretty easily. The spinning and shaping is done outside the flame. I use the flame only for melting the blob and then I move to the side and back into the flame as needed. Do not drop this orange blob on any part of your body...it will be a new experience in pain if you do!!  This bead is done.  I spin it gently until it stops glowing orange and then I place it directly in a preheated kiln for annealing which is a VERY VERY IMPORTANT part of making beads that will last.  Annealing helps to slowly remove the stress from the glass, thus preventing cracking later in the life of the bead.  Some folks do not go directly into the kiln, but go into a fiber blanket for cooling and then later gather all their beads from the day (or days) into the kiln at once.  This is fine, but the beads MUST be annealed later if using this process. This type of annealing is called 'batch annealing".  Sometimes you will find that cheap mass produced beads crack easily and are not cleaned.  Many Many MANY mass producers do not anneal their beads...SHAME ON THEM!!! Don't buy those beads!

Making a bead with decorations is more complex. Long thin pieces of glass are used to make the decorations.  This is called a "Stringer".  Stringers are made by melting the end of a glass rod until glowing, and then taking hold with a tweezer and pulling out a hair thin piece of glass.  I once had someone in the Studio tell me that using a stringer is like painting in baby oil...WITH baby oil.  Yes, it is difficult and can take months and months to learn. I have been making beads for four years but it took two of those just to become comfortable with my stringer control.

My beads are raised to a temperature of 960 degrees where they sit and soak for around an hour.  Then the kiln control is ramped down to around 750 degrees which is right around the straining point of the glass.  I let them soak another hour at this temperature.  Then I ramp the kiln down to zero which takes a period of approx. 7 hours. Lots of beadmakers have automatic timers to ramp their kilns down. I am always here....so I don't need one.

After the beads are annealed and the kiln is cool, the beads are removed and put in a water bath to soak overnight.  The bead release is cleaned out of the centers by use of a tiny dremel with a diamond tip thingie (I have no Idea what else to call it). I always clean my beads under running water. It just seems to keep the little flecks of bead release from sticking to the bead.

After they are clean and dry, the beads are strung and are ready for sale. Be sure to check over them and make sure there are no dots or decor missing and that they are nicely shaped.

I hope some of this makes sense to you!!

 

I love to buy my supplies from small "mom and pop" operations. I have listed some of my favorites to the left.  These folks have all given me personal and caring service.  After ordering glass from a "Major Supplier" and it taking over a month to get to me...I swore I would never stray outside my trusted dealers again. If you decide to make beads or just play with melting glass....give these folks a try. You won't be sorry.

 

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